Cotton Spinning
– Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, Brunei, Cambodia, China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Kazakhstan, Laos, Malaysia, Nepal, Philippines, South Korea, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan
Afghanistan
Spinning cotton is done on a drop spindle in Afghanistan.[1]Cotton has been grown in Afghanistan since the 3rd millennium BCE.[2]
​
Banglidesh
The Banglideshi are known for making cotton, specifically Dhaka cotton.[3] Dhaka cotton was processed very uniquely. The cotton staple was so short and the fibers so fine that the fibers were spread out by boats at dawn and late afternoon and that when they were spun.[4] The process was so specialized and so intense that it took the entire region to make the fabric.[5] The spinners would use charkhas to spin the cotton while on the boat, then sell the teeny threads to the weavers in the next town.[6]
Bhutan
Cotton is common fiber found in Bhutan[7]
​
Brunei
A lot of cotton is spun and woven in Brunei.[8] This is mostly due to the fact that religiously, men can only wear cotton.[9]
​
Cambodia
Fibers produced in Cambodia were silk, cotton, and hemp. [10]
​
China
Cotton has been grown in China since 200 BCE.[11] However, it was a household crop, and was not processed in factories or warehouses until the Qing dynasty (1644-1800).[12]
​
India
Silks are super common to see spun in India. As are cottons. Those are probably the two most common fibers depending on exactly where you are in India (it’s a big place!) with the north seeing a little more silk than the south, though the south would see silk in the cities and wealthier areas.
​
Indonesia
In Indonesia, it was said that the first human couple, Miala Ratu Nggela and Mamu Ratu Ngguku, dropped from the sky in a basket of red cotton, and Miala Ratu Nggela made clothes for her husband with it, so red cotton was sacred.[13]
​
Japan
Japan started growing and producing cotton in the 6th century. While it started as a cottage industry, it quickly grew to be a very popular industry.[14]
Kazakhstan
Kazakhstan does grow cotton, but has only done so recently. There is not much evidence of them importing unspun, unwoven cotton.[15]
​
Laos
When the Tai Kadai arrived in Laos, the people there, the Mon- Khmer, had a tradition of weaving cotton and hemp.[16] While it’s possible they imported spun cotton and hemp, it’s more likely they spun it themselves.
​
Nepal
The primary fibers in Nepal were yak, camel, hemp, and cotton.[17]
​
Philippines
In the Philippines, fibers are mostly cotton blends with other plants, such as abaca, pineapple, and banana fibers.[18]
​
Sri Lanka
The spinning and weaving of cotton in Sri Lanka can be traced back to at least 543 BCE.[19] The story goes that Prince Vijaya saw Kuveni, Queen of the Yakshas, spinning cotton at a wheel, and they fell in love and started a dynasty of Sri Lankan royalty.[20]
Thailand
In Thailand, whorls for cotton thread have been found in excavation sites in Sukhothai.[21] Cotton was imported from India as early as 100 CE.[22] With the date of these imports, it's likely that cotton was also grown, just in small amounts. By the 12th century cotton was a cash crop.
Dating to the Sassanian Empire (224 to 651 CE), the fibers found and produced in Turkmenistan were wool, cotton, and silk.[23] During this time period, cotton was spun on a drop spindle.[24]
Uzbekistan
The agricultural people of Uzbekistan would also grow cotton and silkworms (sericulture) and spin on hand cranked wheels.[25]
References
[1] “Spinning a Lucrative Yarn in Afghanistan,” ReliefWeb, October 3, 2012, https://reliefweb.int/report/afghanistan/spinning-lucrative-yarn-afghanistan.
[2] Daniel Balland, “Cotton III. in Afghanistan,” Encyclopaedia Iranica, October 21, 2024, https://www.iranicaonline.org/articles/cotton-iii/.
[3] Zaria Gorvett, “The Ancient Fabric That No One Knows How to Make,” BBC News, February 24, 2022, https://www.bbc.com/future/article/20210316-the-legendary-fabric-that-no-one-knows-how-to-make.
[4] Ibid.
[5] Ibid.
[6] Gopika Nath, “Garland Magazine,” Garland Magazine Spinning a Yarn Unparalleled Comments, December 6, 2016, https://garlandmag.com/article/spinning-a-yarn-unparalleled/.
[7] “Thagzo: The Art of Weaving.” Ich Links. Accessed June 22, 2025. https://ichlinks.com/archive/elements/elementsV.do?elementsUid=13916806808844150811.
[8] Siti Norkhalbi Haji Wahsalfelah, “Brunei Culture through Its Textile Weaving Tradition,” SUVANNABHUMI 8, no. 2 (December 2016): 113–29, chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO201612359886243.pdf.
[9] Ibid.
[10] Albion Gould, “A Brief History of Weaving in Cambodia,” A Brief History of Weaving in Cambodia, July 3, 2023, https://albiongould.com/a-brief-history-of-weaving-in-cambodia/#:~:text=Weaving%20in%20Cambodia%20dates%20back,hemp%2C%20which%20were%20sourced%20locally.
[11] Harriet Zurndorfer, “The Resistant Fibre: The Pre-Modern History of Cotton in China,” Academia.edu, June 8, 2016, https://www.academia.edu/25993017/The_Resistant_Fibre_The_Pre_modern_History_of_Cotton_in_China.
[12] Ibid.
[13] Georges Breguet, “A Sumba Spinning Wheel: An Instrument, a Work of Art and a Lesson in Philosophy,” Art of the Ancestors, February 15, 2015, https://www.artoftheancestors.com/blog/sumba-spinning-wheel-georges-breguet.
[14] Rohan, “What Is Japanese Cotton Fabric,” Knowing Fabric, September 4, 2023, https://knowingfabric.com/what-is-japanese-cotton-fabric/.
[15] Zh. B. Kundakbayeva, “The History of Kazakhstan from the Earliest Period to the Present Time. Volume I. from the Earliest Period To,” dokumen.pub, 2016, https://dokumen.pub/the-history-of-kazakhstan-from-the-earliest-period-to-the-present-time-volume-i-from-the-earliest-period-to.html.
[16] “Textile Guide: Lao Weaves,” House of Wandering Silk, August 1, 2016, https://www.wanderingsilk.org/post/2016/08/01/textiles-360-lao-weaves.
[17] Ibid
[18] Arel B Sia-Ed, “Inventory and Resource Mapping of Fiber Yielding Plants in Mountain Province ,” www.ijsmsjournal.org, 2019, https://www.ijsmsjournal.org/2019/volume-2%20issue-1/ijsms-v2i1p101.pdf.
[19] Thilina Premjayanth, “Fibershed Sri Lanka,” Fibershed, March 24, 2023, https://fibershed.org/affiliate/sri-lanka/#:~:text=Cotton%20spinning%20and%20weaving%20in,home%20or%20community%2Doriented%20industry.
[20] “The History of Sri Lanka Handloom Culture,” Khiri Travel, January 1, 2022, https://khiri.com/the-history-of-sri-lanka-handloom-culture/.
[21] Jackson, “Thai Traditional Fabrics: 3,000 Years in 15 Minutes,” My Thailand , May 20, 2019, https://www.mythailand.blog/2019/01/14/thai-traditional-fabrics/amp/.
[22] Ibid.
[23] Dominika Maja Kossowska-Janik, “Cotton and Wool: Textile Economy in the SERAKHS Oasis during the Late Sasanian Period, the Case of Spindle Whorls from Gurukly Depe (Turkmenistan),” Ethnobiology Letters 7, no. 1 (December 31, 2016), https://doi.org/10.14237/ebl.7.1.2016.682.
[24] Ibid.
[25] Binafsha Nodir, “Historical Overview of Weaving in Uzbekistan ,” World Bulletin of Social Science 22 (May 24, 2023): 143–54. https://scholarexpress.net/index.php/wbss/article/view/2765/2373